I got the urge to build a computer this weekend, but was thwarted by the fact that we don’t need another computer around the house and therefore can’t really justify paying for the parts. As an alternative, I decided to give my blog readers some tips so you can build your own.
1. Use a Lian-Li case. Every Lian Li case I’ve ever owned is still in use, recycled into a new machine. These cases are beautifully designed, all aluminum, no plastic. There’s a removable cage for the hard drives; optional wheels are available. Both side panels are removable (two screws each). Use of a Plexiglas panel on the left permits a view of the interior. There is space for a 120 mm fan low in the front, with another below the power supply in the rear. I recommend the extended length when possibly, because it runs cooler and because it is easier on the knuckles when replacing cards or drives. These cases are available in whatever color you want so long as it is silver or black. The removable front panel on many models includes doors to hide the optical drives and the air intake.
2. Forget AMD. I’ve tried AMD processors a couple of times, with poor results. Every once in awhile, for a few months, they’ll be the “performance champ” on some benchmark or another, but they just aren’t compatible and reliable over the long run. For that matter, ATI has gone downhill since AMD bought them, so you’re going to be using Nvidia for video.
3. Since you’re using Intel, get an Intel motherboard as well. I have particularly had trouble with ASUStek (compatibility issues, again), but other motherboard makers are flaky, too. Even the highest-end workstation board from Intel will be surprisingly inexpensive from Tiger Direct, and will include headers for front panel I/O. Buy from Tiger, not Newegg; Newegg lacks even rudimentary customer service for returning defective merchandise.
4. You want a Phoenix BIOS. There are lots of compatibility problems with AMI and Award. This won’t be an issue for you, since your Intel board will come with Phoenix. Download the board user manual from the Intel Web site to get all of the advanced BIOS settings.
5. It’s a poorly kept secret (even Walter Mossberg knows) that you don’t need the fastest available processor clock speed. Your money will be far better spent on the second- or third-fastest quad core processor than the fastest dual-core, and you will never see the difference in performance. Many Windows programs now utilize four or more cores. And, as a bonus, you can probably overclock the cheaper one up to the faster speed if you cool it well (see below). I’m not sure there’s any difference between the fastest and near-fastest Intel processors except the model number and the price.
6. You need 4 gigs of RAM (yeah, I know, Windows x86 only addresses 3 gB, but the stuff is cheap and matched pairs are better). One-gig sticks, DDR2 is good enough, but watch what the motherboard calls for. The higher-end motherboards are starting to require DDR3 RAM, which is a bummer because it is currently significantly more expensive.
7. Today’s motherboards use PCI-e video cards. Nvidia will be your chip of choice; any of the OEMs is fine. As of today, the 8800 series cards are the best value. Avoid the 9800 series and go with the 200 series if you are a gamer (like maybe two of them, yoked in SLI, so you can mortgage the house to pay for them). You want dual DVI heads, since almost everybody is more productive with two monitors.
8. You’ll be using SATA hard drives. Avoid RAID 0 unless you want a lot of crashes; the new Western Digital Velociraptor drives perform as well anyway. Get a 10,000 RPM 300 gB drive for programs and a 700 gB 7200 RPM drive for data, music, pictures, video.
9. A pleasant surprise is that onboard audio is getting very good. If you think you need more than that, check out Auzentech.
10. Basic optical drives (CD-DVD R/W) are going to be under $100 each; get two.
11. Don’t bother with a floppy drive.
12. I know from experience that you can get as cool as you need to be, and stay quiet, with air cooling. Water cooling is one of life’s little detours; I’ve taken it so you won’t have to.
13. FrozenCPU.com is a site I stumbled upon that will give you hours of browsing pleasure. They have everything you will need to build your PC other than the CPU and motherboard (remember Tiger Direct, not Newegg, for those). Look around for your heat sink and fans. You want three very quiet 1800 (not 3000) RPM 120 mm fans - one in front, one in or on the cpu heat sink, and one in back. All must blow front to back. If they are quiet enough you can run them full speed. Do not let the motherboard control them (a BIOS setting); use Zalman controllers if you need to slow them down.
14. The best heat sinks currently are from Scythe and Tuniq. The fan goes inside the Tuniq and on the side of the Scythe. You do not want a heat sink with a fan that blows any other direction than in-line with the case fans. A crucial aspect of heat sinks is how flat and finely polished the surface that contacts the CPU is. Also, it is important that the heat sink bolt to the motherboard; pushpins are cheesy.
15. Avoid TEC (also known as Peltier) coolers. The concept is deceptively appealing, but no one has implemented it well yet for desktop PCs. The ones currently available are expensive and noisy, and actually do not cool as well as air.
16. The power supply is crucial. For the stuff I’ve described herein you need at least 800 watts. The power supply fan may be the noisiest thing in the computer, so be careful here. There are many, many acceptable brands; PC Power and Cooling is always a safe choice.
17. You don’t want to run your new creation very long without Everest (from Lavalys software) installed. This software monitors clock speeds, temperatures and fan speeds in the case. Turn off the tray icons and use the OSD. To give you an idea of what Lavalys can do, I’ll give you the OSD information from the computer I’m writing this on right now. It’s an older Intel motherboard with a midrange quad core Pentium processor and an Nvidia 8800 GPU. The motherboard is at 40 degrees and the CPU 41, both good numbers for a machine that is basically idle doing word processing. Both SATA drives are less than 34 degrees. The GPU is at 61 degrees, which might be a bit high, but this is an older, smaller case. This particular case has 90 mm case fans; all running between 1800 and 2100 RPM. CPU and GPU fans are both, coincidentally, both just over 1400.
18. Sufficient cabling and hardware will come with the parts that you shouldn’t need to buy any. It will be helpful to have a lacing gun and Panduit straps to dress the cabling to the case. This improves airflow and enhances appearance if you use a Plexiglas side panel.
19. Soft blue lighting does look good inside the case. Rather than independent lighting systems, I have found that LED-lighted fans are a good choice.
20. It is a useful to inspect your work carefully before plugging the computer in to the wall. Do not, however, screw down the video card or the left case panel prior to firing up, because you will likely be making corrections and improvements.
Every computer hobbyist should know the smell of an incipient electrical fire. I learned this as a teen building transmitters for amateur radio, but recently had the opportunity to instruct my younger son, who was home from college for the weekend. I had completed a computer for the home recording operation and fired it up. When smoke and odor arose I called him in for the experience. This particular device used older optical drives with Molex power connectors. These connectors are shaped like a D, which should make it impossible to connect them backwards, but I had succeeded where others might fail. The drive fried, but I pulled the plug before the power supply or cables were beyond repair. The computer still smells faintly, but has been running well for months.
If anyone expresses even the slightest interest in this post, I’ll follow on with recommendations for just the right basic software for your new machine.